Flower Pot
Project goals
This project was focused on form and manufacturing. The goal was to understand the model making and casting process while utilizing its ability to create multiples.
This was an 8 week individual project and was supervised by Christopher Raia.
Research
Before I could start working with the form, I needed to choose a plant to design around. I chose the Bat Flower because I was intrigued by its details and overall shape. The subtle detail on the base of the plant where the leaves branch out guided the for direction. Additionally the plant requires very moist soil as its natural habitat is the forest floor in Malaysia which was a design requirement.
Ideation
Through sketching I explored a variety of forms from very geometric to very organic. I made foam models of the various different forms. After reviewing the physical forms, I chose the form which I thought had the most potential(bottom left) for further exploration.
Every form study was followed by hundreds of thumbnail sketches. As is worked through the details on paper I would validate or invalidate them in 3d. I joined the two points on the top, which I though help simplify the form. I began to angle the point further back and extend that motion forward across the front of the form. I thought this help visually stabilize the base and create interesting contour lines that your eye could follow.
Production
- I used my study model as the blueprint form my final model. By cutting it into 3/8in layers I could trace the exterior line to use that as a template for the 3/8in poplar.
- Using the bandsaw I cut out the layers
- Using wood glue I joined the layers together
- I joined each one of the halves separately, then joined the two halves with a layer of butcher paper in between so I could split the halves later.
- Using a hand rasp I carved out the rough shape.
- I used a spinal sander to workout and bumps or lump in the form.
- Using a chisel I split the two halves where the butcher paper joined them. I vacuum formed each halve three times with styrene so I could build about a .1in wall thickness.
- I made my fold the same shape as the model so I could minimize material waste and poured both halves of the mold.
- Once the bottom had cured, I poured the top using an Ad marker as the sprue. After both halves cured, I was ready to start casting my models.